Tuesday, August 20, 2013

HAIR: the good, the bad and the NOT so ugly

HAIR MAKES OR BREAKS IT:  I always communicate to my clients that HAIR is the most important element of a woman's beauty.  I don't care how much time you spend on your make-up and wardrobe, assuming that your skin (and teeth) are in check, if your hair is off track, then your aesthetic will be OFF balance!


 I'm not just talking about the hair on your head either. I'm talking about what I call "NEGATIVE and POSITIVE hair".  For example: Your freshly waxed upper lip?.....definitely POSITIVE hair. Your post-salon cut and color....POSITIVE! That knarly chin-hair multiplying by the minute?.....NEGATIVE for sure. What about eyebrows that are Freida Kaylo-esque and have NEVER been groomed, or are OVER tweezed?......uhhhh, that's a NEGATIVE!!!!  Get my point?  I know, I KNOW, I sound harsh and superficial....beauty should come from within, right?  Well, YES, of course, INNER beauty does come from within but what about outer beauty, one's physical self?  There's a difference.  All that valuable time and meticulous effort to primp and style one's self is completely NEGATED, in my opinion, if the negative hair over-powers the positive. Therefore, if you've grown a mustache (ladies), get rid of it!  Are your eyebrows non-existent from over plucking?  Then leave them alone, let them grow-in and consult with a professional like me to get them back on track.  Is your head-hair thinning and gray? Or does your color make your face appear lackluster?  Then go visit a hair professional and DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT PEOPLE!  Hair is the MOST IMPORTANT element in physical attractiveness.  

I have a theory, called "The four elements of harmonic beauty", which include the hair on your head, your eyebrows, your lashes and negative hair removal. If these four components are maintained, there will be very little need for make-up to look your best; its about how well-groomed and maintained these four elements are. 

Hair creates esthetic balance. Hair is responsible for our best look and our worst look. Yes, I know, I'm a bit obsessive about HAIR....but I truly feel passionate about empowering ALL WOMEN and educating you, just a smidge, regarding the school for perpetual hair maintenance.

If looking our best wasn't an issue, then why do Americans spend BILLIONS of dollars each year on beauty treatments, hair treatments, beauty and hair products and cosmetics?  WHY???  It's because women, for the most part, are emotional creatures and "looking good" makes us feel better about ourselves;  Looking "our best" gives us more confidence. For some it's an investment in our love-lives or our careers. For others it just "makes us happy". Is that logical? No, it's emotional, but so what! 

Therefore, now that we have established that inner beauty DIFFERS from outer beauty, we've agreed that we are NOT being superficial, but rather, REALISTIC, and we've acknowledged that it is worth discussing. So let's talk about the uber-importance of looking good, and by "looking good" I mean, looking the best that we can possibly look, with the features and elements we were born with, with respect to our age and of course, always maintaining grace and "inner beauty"  :)

OUTWARD SELF:  As I just mentioned, Americans spend billions for the sake of looking good. But looking good doesn't mean looking like a super model, that's just unrealistic. It does mean, however, taking great care of one's self, choosing your best elements and emphasizing them. Is it your luminous skin you love the most? What about your eyes, are they a feature you're always playing up?  Or perhaps it's your cheekbones that you love most. Whatever your best element of physical beauty is, it will be completely UPSTAGED by negative hair.  That's what this blog-post is about. We all know, or can learn, how to care for our skin.  We all know, or can learn, how to apply flawless make-up. But so many of us do NOT comprehend that our negative hair is getting in the way of all that effort.
 
NEGATIVE HAIR:  Laser hair removal, electrolysis, tweezing, waxing, threading, trimming at the surface level....there are many ways to groom one's self and rid one's face and body of  negative hair.  What exactly do I classify as "negative"?  Many women don't take much thought about their nose hair, for instance (definitely negative). I see it time and time again...women with hair sprouting out of their noses, like a weed forcing it's way through a sidewalk-crack!  I know, it doesn't sound too attractive, however, the reality is that, regardless of sex, humans are covered in hair. You may not be able to see most of it, but it's there covering our bodies from head to toe (with the exception of the palms of our hands, soles of our feet and lips).  Nose hair differs from that fuzzy, facial vellus hair, and can become unsightly and noticeable, especially if you have a longer hair-growth cycle.  Electrolysis is the only permanent form of hair removal, however, as an Electrologist, I  would never treat the delicate nose membrane. For unsightly nose hair, I would recommend laser, waxing or trimming.  But ya gotta see whacha doin'!  So, invest in a light-up mirror, preferably with magnification.  Each time I point-out unsightly nose hair to a client, she is surprised to have never noticed it before (probably because she doesn't own a light-up magnification mirror!).

MORE NEGATIVES:  Upper-lip hair, chin hair, chest hair (for women), "side-burn" growth, bushy un-groomed brows, can all be treated with electrolysis. I never recommend waxing on the face (except for nose hair, and perhaps upper lip growth).  But keep in mind that waxing involves repetitive pulling of the epidermis, which can result in an eventual loss of elasticity.  I understand that waxing is a quick and easy form of facial hair removal, however, from a "healthy skin" stand point, I suggest that you reserve the wax for other parts of your body, such as arms (yes, you should be conscious of that unsightly arm hair) and bikini-hair. Moreover, I never recommend depilatory creams, as they can be irritating to the epidermis. Facial skin is delicate and needs to be treated gently. Trust me, I have nothing against waxing. In fact, I personally get certain bits waxed every 7-10 days (I'm a bit neurotic about it). But, I reserve my wax treatments for non-facial body parts only.  For upper lip and facial hair growth, I would consult with a doctor who offers laser hair removal as a treatment, you may be a candidate.  Not all skin types are candidates for laser, especially on the face, as some have the ability to hyper-pigment.  Therefore, do your research and consult with a doctor who comes highly recommended to you, and can provide you with a thorough consultation.....and ask questions about the laser being used on your skin!  Laser treatments should be taken seriously. Lasers are intense, invasive and can cause damage to the skin. An IPL laser, for example, would not be the best choice for a client with a darker skin type (Fitzpatrick 4 for example) due to the risk of hyper pigmentation, however, there are amazing lasers on the market that can work wonders. Do your homework and learn about which lasers work best for your skin type. 

HORMONES: Menopause, puberty, glandular issues, girly-part issues are just some of the reasons for hypertrichosis (excessive hair-growth in areas where hair does NOT normally grow, such as the chest area for women) and hirsutism (excessive hair growth in the "normal" areas of hair growth, such as face, chin and arms).  If you are a woman and have hypertrichosis or hirsutism I recommend you consult with an Endocrinologist.  These unusual hair-growth patterns may be a result of a hormone imbalance or a glandular issue.  An Electrologist should not treat these areas until he/she knows that you have been seen by a doctor first, and should ask for a doctor's note prior to treatment. It is not uncommon for women to start growing long, gnarly hair on her chin, or even on her chest, for that matter. Hormones can do crazy things to our bodies!

EYEBROWS:  *The eyebrows are the most important part of the face, in my opinion.  They frame one's face and provide essential balance and symmetry. Brows should not be neglected or ignored. They should NOT be groomed haphazardly, or on the fly. They should be trimmed, shaped and shaded, in a way that is specific and deliberate, in an effort to balance one's face. The only way to manipulate the delicate and unique shape of one's brow, is by hand tweezing. Tweezing differs from waxing, in that the brow is shaped hair by hair, one at a time, rather than taking a strip of multiple "important" hairs and violently ripping them out. Therefore, empower yourself and learn how to tweeze your own eyebrows, or contact me and I'll help you find an expert in your area. Threading is fine, and not as damaging to the skin like waxing, however, make sure that your threader comes recommended to you. A quick-thread job can lead to an over-threaded disaster, so do your research and find a licensed professional who is precise and takes her time. Take note that eventually eyebrow hairs DO NOT grow back, so an over-tweezed brow may eventually result in a permanently deformed one. Furthermore, the skin surrounding the eye is the thinnest skin on the body. Repetitive pulling and manipulation of this skin may result in a loss of elasticity, sooner than you would want. Be conscious of the skin surrounding the eyes and groom those surrounding hairs delicately.

HEAD HAIR:  Dye those grays!  Just get rid of 'em!! The right hair color can work miracles by bringing all of your features to life. It's amazing how many women I see, on a daily basis, walking around with grays, or hair color that does not suit them, or color that is too dark or too light for their aesthetic. Dying-away the grays can add YEARS to your appearance...why accelerate the aging process?  Dying one's hair is affordable and easy to do, so consult with a professional stylist for the best hair style and COLOR suited for your face's shape and features. Consider what works BEST for your FACE (who cares about convenience!).  You may think that a short bob may not be the best look for you, however, your beauty professional may suggest a longer, face-framing style.

QUICK TIP:  If you're like most women over 35, a trip to the salon (to cover-up the grays) is a bi-monthly ritual.  To extend the process another week or two, I suggest using OLD mascara.  Yes, there are hair gels and wand-colors on the market, specifically for hair, to dab those grays in-between coloring. But oh-how-easy, cheap and convenient an old mascara tube can be!  Since you should turn your mascara over every two months anyhow, why toss it in the garbage?  Instead, label it clearly to indicate that it's OLD, then place it in your hair-product drawer.  A swipe here and there using mascara works great at camouflaging grays, particularly for women with darker hair. You know it's time to go to the salon when........your shower water runs black from all that mascara! 

EXTENSIONS:  If you're unhappy with your thinning hair, and if your hair does not grow beyond a certain point, due to a short hair-growth cycle, don't fret, you have options.  Hair extensions can be life changing, especially for those with thinning and perpetually short hair.  Whether you want to add volume, length or both, permanent hair extensions, made from human hair, is a great way to go.  There are a few different methods used in applying extensions, so I would suggest that you consult with your hair-care professional and inquire about the best extension-product for your hair and lifestyle. Extensions can be high-maintenance and pricey, so I would recommend that you first start-out with the clip-on/removable version and see if your new-found mane is something that is desirable to you. Permanent hair extensions are made to last for a year, therefore, if taken proper care of, these added-pieces can transform your look , as well as your confidence.

EYELASHES:  Most lashes beg to be thickened and lengthened. Mascaras, eyelash extensions and prescription lash-growth serums can work miracles when it comes to kicking those lashes up a notch; they really open up the face. Without a long, dark lash, the face can appear dull and washed-out.  Eyelashes open up and brighten the face in a spectacular way, so if you had to pick one make-up item to wear, let it be mascara. There are hundreds of mascara brands on the market. Just remember to toss it after 2 months. Mascara lives in a dark, moist environment which will eventually harbor bacteria, so be conscious of your purchase date.  If the practice of applying mascara is too high-maintenance for you, I would suggest you look into permanent eyelash extensions or topical hair-growth serums such as Latisse (which is available only by prescription).  If you choose to wear removable false eyelashes, try the  individual lashes, rather than the full-on version, they appear more natural looking.

PERMANENT MAKE-UP:  As a Permanent Make-Up professional, my favorite procedure is "Lash-Line Enhancement".  This is where pigments are permanently implanted in between each eyelash, creating a darker, more lush-looking lash line, emphasizing the hair. A permanent eyeliner-line can be added in addition to the lash enhancement (I prefer the permanent liner to be added to the upper lid only), creating an effect that truly enhances the lashes and make the eyes stand out.

Cheers to esthetic harmony! 

Related blog posts: Skin-Care 101, Brow 101, COCONUT OIL makes an uber-Rich Hair Conditioner and Bye Bye Dry Hair


--Ciao for now  xo

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