EYE CREAMS and the Skin They are Made for

    They say that the eyes are the window to the soul. Well, I don't know about that, but I can tell you one thing that is absolutely certain: the eyes are the window to youth and are incapable of hiding our emotion, our health and, particularly, our age. So what's the latest and greatest advancement in the care of this delicate skin? The answer lies in education; understanding your skin, as well as the product-ingredients for which you choose to maintain that skin with. To educate one's self about the uniqueness of your own skin, particularly the eyes, is truly empowering. To know that there is a pause button, in terms of aesthetic-aging, that YOU are in control of is fantastic! However, there's no Potter-esque spell that a magic wand can fix; the key to youthful eyes is simple: maintain a consistent, daily ritual, involving quality eye-specific products, period.

WHAT EYE CREAM IS BEST FOR YOU?

     I often get asked about my suggestion for the best eye creams on the market; it's a subject that many women, and men alike, want to know about. Virtually every skincare line carries at least one eye-cream or serum. I'm a bit neurotic about the care and maintenance of my own skin, especially the skin surrounding my eyes. I like to layer my eye cream in conjunction with a concentrated eye serum like Lancôme Visionnaire Eye, Advanced Eye Contour Serum ($60 at Macy's) and alternate between Laura Mercier Eyedration Moisture Eye Cream ($45 at Nordstrom) and La Prairie Cellular Radiance Eye Cream ($320 at Nordstrom). Do these products work for me? They meet my expectations, so yes, they do. Being realistic about what you expect your facial products to achieve is essential, but more importantly, knowing that you are doing all that you can possibly do, within your means, to delay the inevitability of wrinkled eye-skin, is priceless. This doesn't mean, however, that what works for me will work for you. Therefore, before I suggest the best cream or serum for your skin, I would first ask you about your skin type, your life style, your budget, your diet, your race,  as well as the climate you live in. Is your home-town's weather arid, is it tropical, does it snow? Do you have allergies? I would ask if you wear make-up on a daily basis, and what eye-care products you've used in the past, if any at all. I would need to know  about your skincare regime: do you enjoy caring for your skin or is it a chore? Do you prefer a light-weight serum, a thicker cream or a cooling gel? How disciplined are you about your skincare rituals? Do you even have a ritual? 

   

     Before you select an eye cream, you would need to assess your skin, in addition to your concerns: is the issue lack of under eye hydration, dark circles, fine lines, proactive anti-aging or all of the above? In a nutshell, what I really want to know is "what are your expectations and what end-result do you want your eye cream to achieve?"

     If you think I've given you question overload, you're probably right! There are a myriad of product lines which cater to various skin types. The key, however, is to find one that will address your specific concerns in a realistic way. Let me say that again, "In a REALISTIC way".  In order to cater to your skin's needs, I wouldn't be able to help you unless I have an understanding of your lifestyle. Therefore, as I mentioned: what works for me may not necessarily work for you. 

IS EYE SKIN A FREE-FOR-ALL?

     Products used on the eye area, should be eye-specific, which means: never use face creams, facial lotions, body lotions, petroleum jelly or any other product not intended for under-eye skin. The skin surrounding the eyes is extremely delicate and vulnerable. It should be treated consciously, not haphazardly, and this includes the way we touch that skin (always tap inward towards the nose, never pull out towards the ears). Eye skin is the thinnest skin on the body and the first area to show signs of aging, yikes! Moreover, the eye skin does not contain hair follicles which make it void of sebaceous glands (your skin's natural oil-producers). The body's natural moisture-balance occurs through the hair follicles, utilizing the hair shaft as a roadway to disperse oil onto the skin. Do you ever fret about your shiny forehead? That shine is sebum (your body's oil), which is über-nourishing for the skin; it's what cosmetic companies attempt to simulate when formulating hydrating products such as eye cream. So, the next time you attempt to blot that shiny face, do it with a smile! I'll assume that your main concern, in selecting an eye cream, is from a hydration and anti-aging stand point; it's what women are most concerned about, for the most part. 

WHAT DO I LIKE?

     I'm a big fan of Mario Badescu's skin care line, particularly their Glycolic Eye Cream ($20 at Cream, South Miami). Why? It's thick and creamy, intensely moisturizing and contains vitamin E (an anti-oxidant, which means it blocks those pesky free-radicals which accelerate skin-aging); but best of all, this product contains Glycolic Acid, which is an alpha hydroxy. 

     What's so special about Glycolic? This AHA exfoliator has old-school charm without any gimmicks. It sloughs away dead skin cells to reveal new skin, it helps to thicken skin (this is a good thing) and perpetual use of Glycolic will stimulate not only collagen production within the dermal layers of the skin, but Hyalauronic acid production as well (the stuff which promotes moisture in the skin). Chemical exfoliation, such as Glycolic, is essential for product penetration (the concept of exfoliation pertains to all aspects of skin, from face to toe). In addition to cell turnover, skin needs to be perpetually exfoliated in order for serums and creams to penetrate at their maximum potential.

     I need to note that my Mario cream leaves my eye skin dewy soft. I like that. You may, however, prefer a product that is quick to penetrate the skin without leaving any evidence that it was there in the first place. You may have a preference to a lighter weight cream, or one which contains a vitamin-A derivative such as a Retinoid. 

WHAT'S SO GREAT ABOUT AN $80 EYE CREAM?

     High-end quality lines like Chantecaille (Nordstrom) or Shseido (Macy's), are formulated and engineered by chemists to penetrate deeply within the skin; it has to do with the molecular structure of products. Luxury products like these are amazing at penetrating deep into the dermal layers of the skin to specifically stimulate the production of collagen as well as Hyaluronic acid, which infuses skin with super-moisture. Deep penetrating products work due to their molecular structure. Remember chemistry class? Can you picture those ball-like molecule chains? Well those "balls" are processed in varying sizes; if the ball is too large, it will not be able to penetrate the skin. Which is why Glycolic works so well; it has the smallest molecule of all the acid exfoliators, therefore penetrates the deepest.  Think of skin as a screen with tiny holes. High-end super creams and serums are able to penetrate those tiny holes because of the product's chemistry. The process of creating a serum or cream with micro molecules small enough to penetrate the epidermis and into the dermis is costly. You may not be able to tell the difference between a $100 white cotton t-shirt and a $30 version, however, in the case of skincare, the adage is right: you get what you pay for. You cannot get that micro-molecule, deep-penetration from a drugstore brand, you just can't. 

BE REALISTIC!

     Regardless of what product you use on the eye-area, be consistent, but most importantly be realistic. If you think a product is too good to be true, it probably is. The advancements in skincare, even in just the past decade, are enormous. The skincare technology on the market today will make your skin significantly better in terms of tone, texture and moisture. as well as the reduction of fine lines. However, do not mistake "better" for "a wrinkle cure". What's my recommendation, now that you're a bit more educated on the subject of eye creams? You're going to consult with a professional (like me) to determine your skin's blueprint. Then, once you choose the products best suited for you, apply them (as directed) twice per day, morning and night. (BEAUTY TIP: whatever you apply to the face, do the same to the neck and décolleté. I always recommend for my clients to add a dab of eye serum and cream to these areas, specifically the cleavage where skin has a vulnerability to crinkle). Bottom line, the key is to be consistent with your skincare routine, treat your eye skin gently, never pulling or tugging. Remember, the eye skin is like a fragile flower; it needs to be nourished, hydrated and treated tenderly. Allow your eyes to be as youthful as your soul.

--CIAO for now xo

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