STRAWBERRY LEGS: a problem for women of color

I live in South Florida, where  wearing short-shorts to sport your bronzed stems is an institution. Whether it's a casual trip to the market, a morning run or a night out in the Magic City (where heals go hand-in-hand with  "dressy shorts"), legs are a big deal here in the 305. But what if your legs had issues? What if they were peppered with unsightly dark legions or bumps that would not clear up, despite your efforts? What if you were so self conscious about your legs that instead of short-shorts you have adopted the long pant (what a travesty!)?

For many women, particularly women of color, STRAWBERRY LEGS are a big problem. You know you have it if you are cursed with dark, dot-like marks on the legs, which resemble the skin of a strawberry, hence the name. This is a follicular issue and can be seen with all skin types, however for women with a darker pigmentation, it is much more noticeable. Women of color have amazingly beautiful skin, so a condition like this can hinder one's freedom to confidently expose their legs. Luckily, there are a few solutions, but note that it may take a few attempts to find the method what works for you. 

BUT WHY ARE THE SPOTS BLACK IN THE FIRST PLACE?

These back spots are actually black-heads (open comedones), the same black-heads you might find on your nose or forehead. Sebum, debris and dead skin cells get trapped inside the hair follicle. When this "sebum-plug" gets exposed to air, it oxidizes and turns black.

HOW TO GET RID OF THE SPECKLE:

Daily exfoliation is key. Two days prior to shaving, alternate exfoliation methods using a granular exfoliant one day and a chemical exfoliant the next. "Granular exfoliants", such as a salt or sugar scrub, will aggressively slough-off dead skin cells, and encourage the follicles to release trapped debris (plus it feels wonderful on the legs).  A "chemical exfoliant" like a glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid cleanser is great as well. I'm partial to use Glycolic in particular, because it  penetrates deep into the skin, turning over that cell  build-up. Glycolic is an "alpha hydroxy", and for aggressive treatment of Stawberry Legs, I recommend you eventually work up to a 10% concentration, but start lower at first. Over the counter glycolic products come in a range of levels, 3% to 10%, but I would recommend starting at around 5% and graduate up to a 10% glycolic wash. 

Maintainin Stawberry Legs is a perpetual act, it is something that cannot be "cured" due to your body's predisposition, however, it can be maintained. The skin will require time to change. Therefore, a gradual incline in acid-intensity is what I recommend.

Salicylic acid is a "Beta Hydroxy" most commonly used to prevent acne by infusing the follicle with oxygen; this hinders the growth of bacteria. The key to an acid cleanser (whether it be glycolic, lactic or salicylic, is to massage it skin that has been softened with warm water from the tub or shower. Allow it to sit on the skin for a few minutes prior to rinsing, this will allow the product to penetrate the skin, melt away the dead skin cells and flush out the follicles. A change will not happen overnight however, an acid wash (3 times per week) should be introduced into your weekly skin care regime.

NOW WHAT?

Now that you have exfoliated the skin for a few days prior to shaving, your skin is prepped. Soften skin in the shower or tub, using warm (not hot) water. Make sure that your skin is lubricated prior to shaving, so using a moisturizing shave cream, or even coconut oil, is necessary. I personally scrub my legs with a coconut oil-based salt scrub prior to shaving, then immediately shave my legs using the scrub in lieu of shave cream. 

Make sure that your razors are ONE TIME USE. Razors harbor bacteria upon use, so never use the same razor twice, so purchase a multi-pack of quality razors. A little tip I can give you in an effort to be frugal, would be to place your used razor on the top rack of your dish washer, in a high-heat cycle. The dish water will disinfect the used razor, allowing you to get at least 3 uses out of it. You never want to use a dull razor on your body, therefore toss it after a few uses. 

Next, shave hair IN THE DIRECTION of the hair growth. Shaving against the growth with encourage in-growns which will lead to infection. After you exit the tub or shower, wipe Witch Hazel on your freshly shaven legs, using cotton (I like "Thayers Witch Hazel"). This will soothe the skin and constrict the pores, as well as balance-out the skins pH levels, creating a more acidic environment (healthy skin is acidic skin). 

HEALTH TIP: when managing any bacteria-causing skin issue, whether it be acne on the face or Strawberry Skin, use a small, bleach-washed towel to pat the skin dry. Never use your bath towel which harbors bacteria. Another option would be to use a tissue or cotton. In other words, the use of a contaminated towel to dry your legs isn't a great idea, so have a stack of bleach-washed, single-use towels ready to dry-off the legs after bathing.

Lastly, moisturize your legs with a glycolic body moisturizer. You may feel a bit of a tingle after shaving, however, it will help keep skin exfoliated and hydrated at the same time (I use a 5% glycolic lotion on my skin).

I FOLLOWED YOUR DIRECTIONS AND MY SKIN STILL LOOKS LIKE A STRAWBERRY!

If you've followed my instructions and are still experiencing issues, you may need to tweak your hair removal system. 

I would stay away from depilatory creams, as these products contain chemicals that can irritate skin and perpetuate your problem. My recommendation is laser hair removal, electrolysis or waxing. 

Laser hair removal can be life changing for many, however it can be costly so consider your budget. Never respond to a "group deal" for laser treatments. This is an invasive procedure that can damage skin if not done properly. Always consult with a recommended professional and find out if their laser treats pigmented skin. Laser hair removal works by the contrast in pigments: skin versus hair. The problem used to be that women of color were never candidates for laser due to their darker pigmentation. However, new developments in laser technology has made it possible to treat darker skin. The key is finding a top notch professional, with a state of the art laser, that will not injure your skin. So do your research on this!

Electrolysis is the only permanent form of hair removal. A micro-probe is inserted into the hair follicle, and a low current of energy is introduced, in an effort to slowly but eventually render the hair lifeless. The problem with electrolysis on large areas such as legs, is that it's tedious. Due to the low amount of current infused into the follicle, it will take time. I always recommend laser hair removal for larger areas, then follow up with electrolysis to tackle the 5%, more or less, of the hairs remaining. 

Waxing is the final method of hair removal I recommend. Although you should never wax on the face in an effort to preserve skin's elasticity, waxing the body is perfectly fine. I recommend going to a chain location for hair removal. A company like Euopean Wax Center is reputable and strict about quality control, whereby you will never see contamination (no double dipping!), essential for the skin's health. Their wax remains at 120 degrees (not too hot) and will not tear the surface layers of the skin (an issue that may occur with cheap wax or wax that is too hot). 

LEG BEAUTY TIP: Whether the issue is strawberry skin, varicose veins, spider veins, bruising or hyper pigmentation, most women have some flaw which is preventing the short skirts to make an appearance. Body makeup is a wonderful "quick fix" that I personally use and swear by. One of the products I use is "Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs" (which is available in varying shades at your local drugstore). 

It will cover most imperfections, will even out skin tone and will not rub off on your clothes! I do recommend, however, that you scrub your legs with a granular scrub, after the day has ended. You want to keep that leg-skin clean. Treat your legs as you would your face: you would never dream of going to bed without cleansing, toning and moisturizing your face, would you??

CONCLUSION:

Now that you know what strawberry skin is and how to manage it, the key is to be consistent. You must be consistent with your skin's maintenance. Change will NOT happen overnight, therefore I would give your skin at least 3 weeks to notice a change; everyone's biology is different, so there's really no way to know. If weeks have passed and you've followed my advise, but still do not see a change, then you will need to visit a Board Certified Dermatologist. He or she may prescribe a medical-grade topical cream or cleanser to treat your condition.

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--CIAO for now  xo