CONCEALER -101

con·ceal·er

kənˈsēlər/

noun

"a flesh-toned cosmetic used to cover facial blemishes and dark circles under the eyes". 

Concealer is absolutely essential for hiding under-eye discoloration and brightening and opening-up the face. If you have dark circles with undertones of purple, gray or red, the only way to even-out this skin and camouflage the discoloration is with the proper use of a make-up concealer.

CAN'T I JUST USE FOUNDATION? 
A concealer is a concentrated pigment that is NOT a foundation. Foundations have a less intense pigment ratio and are created to mimic your natural skin tone. Trust me, you want your concealer to be more concentrated with a higher  pigment ratio. It's heavier than foundation in an attempt to mask the discoloration and brighten the face. The under-eye area of the face (including the sides and underneath the nose) is what I call a "Light Zone"; it's the area on the face where the light should be concentrated, in an effort to create facial illumination and balance. A dark under-eye pigment (aka: "dark circles") can upstage the face and create unsightly imbalance.

Concealers come in various options: Creams, Liquids, Pens, Crayon Sticks and Pastes....

"liquid pen" concealer (assorted brands) and a "crayon stick" concealer by MAC

WHAT ABOUT MY FACIAL BLEMISHES & HYPER-PIGMENTATION? 

Although a concealer can do the trick at camouflaging these hot spots, I would recommend sticking to the under-eye area when using a concealer and invest in a quality "color corrector" for your facial hyper-pigmentation, such as Motives "Color Perfection Quad" or Laura Mercier "Secret Camoflauge".

"cream" concealer by MAC and "liquid" concealer by Covergirl

APPLYING CONCEALER ISN'T ROCKET SCIENCE, IS IT?
Rocket Science? No way! However, an application that will render the under eye skin impossibly luminous can be a bit tricky. The problem for most of us, is that the concealer tends to cake and settle into our under-eye cracks and fine lines, yielding unsuccessful results.

Before you attempt to create a flawless under-eye finish, you must first understand the under-eye SKIN itself. This is the thinnest, most vulnerable skin on the body and does not contain hair follicles. The absence of follicles results in drier skin (which ages quicker compared to other areas of the body). Under-the-eye skin is vulnerable because this area is void of sebaceous-gland-activity (oil production), as opposed to other parts of your face which have an abundance of natural oil production. For those that have under-eye discoloration or darkness, the only way to mask these deepened tones is with the use of a concealer. This darkening is due to the thin eye skin showcasing your underlying biology. In other words, the darkness seen as an "under eye circle" may actually be the shadow of your bone or sinus cavity, shodowing through the thin eye skin. This is particularly evident in those with allergies, where sinus fluid is present. Additionaly, darkening of the under-eye skin is typically hereditary, and no you cannot "get rid" of these dark circles. A product which claims to eradicate the circles is not being entirely truthful. It may contain light reflectors which give an illusion of light, but the discoloration will always be present on naked skin. 

SO WHAT DO I DO?

The first thing you need to think about is HYDRATION. Applying a hydrating eye cream prior to concealing the under eye is  absolutely necessary. However, don't just apply one layer. If you want this fine skin to plumpen and appear flawless when made-up, you need to apply SEVERAL layers of eye cream (waiting a few minutes in between layers), to truly hydrate the area. If you're in a hurry and need to head off to work, then one layer of cream is better than none. 

For a smooth, bright, crack-free finish, follow my fool-proof method. Yes, there are several steps. No, it's not practical for "everyday makeup" (unless you're obsessive like me). However, if you're getting ready for a special event or a photo shoot, this tip is a ESSENTIAL!

MY 10 STEPS TO FLAWLESS CONCEALER:

1. Cleanse, Tone and Moisturize the face and apply foundation to even-out skin tone. 

2. Apply a hydrating EYE CREAM (to the under eye area), and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

3. Apply another layer of eye cream, and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

4. Apply another layer of eye cream, and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

5. Keep repeating the eye cream application until the skin is rendered plump and hydrated (at least 3 times if not more).

6. Next, apply an eye PRIMER to the under eye area. It sounds unusual, I know! But the primer will allow the concealer to stay put without cracking and it will give it that flawless HD finish.

7. Apply a LIQUID concealer. 1-2 shades lighter than your skin. Cream concealers  are too heavy. The only exception in using a cream concealer is for those who have excessive and very dark under-eye discoloration. If this is the case, use a CREAM CONCEALER as it will effectively hide the discoloration, however, after the cream is applied, add a layer of LIQUID concealer on top. Trust me, it will brighten your face.

8. Apply a layer of LIQUID concealer, 1-2 shades lighter than your skin. Don't just apply the liquid under the eye, however. For a full-on brightening effect, dot the liquid concealer onto the sides of the nose (directly under the eyes) and around the nostrils as well,

9. Using your finger, a concealer brush or a blending sponge, lightly blend the product into your skin. You will immediately see how your face opens up and becomes illuminated. 

10.  LIGHTLY dust a translucent powder to the areas you've just applied the liquid concealer to. Do not use too much, a little is all you need to set the makeup into the skin. 

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--CIAO for now xoxo
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