Saturday, October 4, 2014

Fill-in those BROWS! 101

The eyebrows are the quintessential pillars of the face, framing the features like nothing else can. They balance the face, adding impact, strength, symmetry and intense visual interest, while creating a bit of mystery. Even the fullest of brows require help with sparse gaps which create imbalance. Whether using a brow pencil, a pigment cream, a pigment gel or a pigment powder (my preferred method and the method used below), the same rules apply: use a light touch when applying, and blend blend blend to achieve a soft yet bold finish.

BROW ANATOMY: The eyebrows are comprised of four quadrants. The hairs of the top line of the brows grow downward. The bottom brow-line hairs grow up. If you brush the brows down, exposing the top line of the eyebrow, notice the portion from the head to the top of the arch (quadrant "q" 1), and the line from top of arch to the upper tip of the tail ("q 2"). Now brush the brow hairs upward. Start at the underside of the head to the underside of the curve to identify "q 3", then continue the line from underside of arch to underside of tail ("q 4"). When you identify the four quadrants and trace those lines with pigment (regardless of how sparse and thin your brows are), you've just identified your brow's unique anatomy by creating a blueprint.

Invest in a quality eyebrow brush and practice shading your brows-in everyday. A shaded brow adds life to the face, so take the time to learn how to fill yours in. 

STEP 1: Brush the hairs upward

STEP 2: Tweeze away any stray hairs (never wax the brows).

STEP 3: Apply a brow pigment (with an eyebrow brush) to Quadrant-1 and follow the top line from HEAD to ARCH. If using a brow powder, I recommend wetting the brush first with a bit of water, then dip your damp brush into the powder pigment.

STEP 4: Follow the top brow line from Quadrant-2, from ARCH to TAIL. 

STEP 5: Now outline and follow the under-side line of Quadrant-3, from under-side of head to the under side of the arch. 

STEP 6: Continue that bottom brow-line from the under-arch to the under side of the tail (Quadrant-4). 

STEP 7: Using a spoolie, brush your brows to blend-in the pigment. Brush in the opposite direction of the hair growth to really blend the pigment into the underlying skin.

STEP 8: After the pigment is well blended, fine tune the sparse areas that may need a bit more pigmentation.

STEP 9: Applying a creamy concealer to the perimeter of the eyebrows will hide any discoloration and hyper-pigmentation around the eyebrows, making them really stand-out. Then blend the concealer well with a concealer brush.

STEP 10: Brush on a sheer layer of light eye shadow onto the brow bone. The shadow will finish the look and really set the brows off making them the star of the face show!

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--CIAO for now xoxo