CONCEALER -101

con·ceal·er

kənˈsēlər/

noun

"a flesh-toned cosmetic used to cover facial blemishes and dark circles under the eyes". 

Concealer is absolutely essential for hiding under-eye discoloration and brightening and opening-up the face. If you have dark circles with undertones of purple, gray or red, the only way to even-out this skin and camouflage the discoloration is with the proper use of a make-up concealer.

CAN'T I JUST USE FOUNDATION? 
A concealer is a concentrated pigment that is NOT a foundation. Foundations have a less intense pigment ratio and are created to mimic your natural skin tone. Trust me, you want your concealer to be more concentrated with a higher  pigment ratio. It's heavier than foundation in an attempt to mask the discoloration and brighten the face. The under-eye area of the face (including the sides and underneath the nose) is what I call a "Light Zone"; it's the area on the face where the light should be concentrated, in an effort to create facial illumination and balance. A dark under-eye pigment (aka: "dark circles") can upstage the face and create unsightly imbalance.

Concealers come in various options: Creams, Liquids, Pens, Crayon Sticks and Pastes....

"liquid pen" concealer (assorted brands) and a "crayon stick" concealer by MAC

WHAT ABOUT MY FACIAL BLEMISHES & HYPER-PIGMENTATION? 

Although a concealer can do the trick at camouflaging these hot spots, I would recommend sticking to the under-eye area when using a concealer and invest in a quality "color corrector" for your facial hyper-pigmentation, such as Motives "Color Perfection Quad" or Laura Mercier "Secret Camoflauge".

"cream" concealer by MAC and "liquid" concealer by Covergirl

APPLYING CONCEALER ISN'T ROCKET SCIENCE, IS IT?
Rocket Science? No way! However, an application that will render the under eye skin impossibly luminous can be a bit tricky. The problem for most of us, is that the concealer tends to cake and settle into our under-eye cracks and fine lines, yielding unsuccessful results.

Before you attempt to create a flawless under-eye finish, you must first understand the under-eye SKIN itself. This is the thinnest, most vulnerable skin on the body and does not contain hair follicles. The absence of follicles results in drier skin (which ages quicker compared to other areas of the body). Under-the-eye skin is vulnerable because this area is void of sebaceous-gland-activity (oil production), as opposed to other parts of your face which have an abundance of natural oil production. For those that have under-eye discoloration or darkness, the only way to mask these deepened tones is with the use of a concealer. This darkening is due to the thin eye skin showcasing your underlying biology. In other words, the darkness seen as an "under eye circle" may actually be the shadow of your bone or sinus cavity, shodowing through the thin eye skin. This is particularly evident in those with allergies, where sinus fluid is present. Additionaly, darkening of the under-eye skin is typically hereditary, and no you cannot "get rid" of these dark circles. A product which claims to eradicate the circles is not being entirely truthful. It may contain light reflectors which give an illusion of light, but the discoloration will always be present on naked skin. 

SO WHAT DO I DO?

The first thing you need to think about is HYDRATION. Applying a hydrating eye cream prior to concealing the under eye is  absolutely necessary. However, don't just apply one layer. If you want this fine skin to plumpen and appear flawless when made-up, you need to apply SEVERAL layers of eye cream (waiting a few minutes in between layers), to truly hydrate the area. If you're in a hurry and need to head off to work, then one layer of cream is better than none. 

For a smooth, bright, crack-free finish, follow my fool-proof method. Yes, there are several steps. No, it's not practical for "everyday makeup" (unless you're obsessive like me). However, if you're getting ready for a special event or a photo shoot, this tip is a ESSENTIAL!

MY 10 STEPS TO FLAWLESS CONCEALER:

1. Cleanse, Tone and Moisturize the face and apply foundation to even-out skin tone. 

2. Apply a hydrating EYE CREAM (to the under eye area), and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

3. Apply another layer of eye cream, and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

4. Apply another layer of eye cream, and allow it to absorb into the skin. 

5. Keep repeating the eye cream application until the skin is rendered plump and hydrated (at least 3 times if not more).

6. Next, apply an eye PRIMER to the under eye area. It sounds unusual, I know! But the primer will allow the concealer to stay put without cracking and it will give it that flawless HD finish.

7. Apply a LIQUID concealer. 1-2 shades lighter than your skin. Cream concealers  are too heavy. The only exception in using a cream concealer is for those who have excessive and very dark under-eye discoloration. If this is the case, use a CREAM CONCEALER as it will effectively hide the discoloration, however, after the cream is applied, add a layer of LIQUID concealer on top. Trust me, it will brighten your face.

8. Apply a layer of LIQUID concealer, 1-2 shades lighter than your skin. Don't just apply the liquid under the eye, however. For a full-on brightening effect, dot the liquid concealer onto the sides of the nose (directly under the eyes) and around the nostrils as well,

9. Using your finger, a concealer brush or a blending sponge, lightly blend the product into your skin. You will immediately see how your face opens up and becomes illuminated. 

10.  LIGHTLY dust a translucent powder to the areas you've just applied the liquid concealer to. Do not use too much, a little is all you need to set the makeup into the skin. 

For daily beauty, skin -care and brow tips, follow me on social media

@Beauty and Brow Girl

--CIAO for now xoxo
Beauty and Brow Girl Website

I'm the BEST at What I Do Best

i don't need to show you a photo to emphasize the impact a brow has to a face. However, this photo speaks for itself. I see new clients EVERY DAY w butchered brows. Why? Because the value they assign for shaping has given them a brow worthy of the little money they invested. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Pay $10 for a brow-shaping & you'll be paying for the consequences in more than cash, as brows may never grow back to their full potential in many cases. What's the difference between me & the troglodytes who have no understanding about brow anatomy? (because their education came from "beauty school" rather than their innate ability or passion). The difference is in the well-defined area between "expert" & "waxer". Brow Anatomy, the Architecture of the Brow, Understanding the Brow Line, Understanding the Juxtaposition of an Eyebrow to the Face, Understanding Hair-Growth Patterns, Color Theory, Understanding the Biological Hair-Growth Cycle, Having knowledge of the affects that Hormones play with regard to hair...... All this & MUCH MORE should be mastered by ANY ONE who is privileged enough to touch your face. Trust me, I make more of a profit performing a $600 permanent eyebrow procedure than a $40 brow-shaping service. HOWEVER, brows are my passion, the beauty inspiration that drives me, so with that said, I would do it for free....but I have to pay my rent, that's why I charge. So when I REFUSE your tip (because it offends me & because a beauty-business owner should NEVER accept a tip from her client), it's because I'm giving you my 

tens-of-thousands of hours of training, of passion, of ability, of scientific knowledge & of innate understanding. Am I being arrogant? You bet your brows I'm arrogant, but it's because I know I'm great at what I do & I don't do it for money. THAT'S the difference between me & the troglodytes. Contact me for a friendly, no-tip-required consultation. CIAO for now xoxo 

ELECTROLYSIS Post Treatment Protocol

Electrolysis is the process of permanent hair removal. In fact, it is the only form of permanent hair removal approved by the FDA. The treatments use various energy modalities such as Thermolysis, Galvanic or Blend (I use Thermolysis in my practice; 2014 Fischer TS-1 machine), and can only be performed by a certified, State-licensed Electrologist. The practice of Electrology is supervised by the Board of Medicine, which was legislatively established to ensure that every Electrologist (and Electrology facility) meets minimum requirements for safe practice. When inspecting an Electrology facility, I suggest that you make sure the Practioner exercises MAXIMUM requirements for safe practice, as this is a semi-invasive procedure and should be practiced in a semi-sterile environment. Universal precautions should be exercised at all times.

After Electrolysis treatment, your skin may be slightly red and/or swollen..you may even develop some bruising. This is completely normal and will lessen within a few hours but may even last a few days (bruising can last up to two weeks). It is also not unusual for redness and swelling to appear the day AFTER treatment. A slight crust may develop over the treated area, again, this is normal. The crust is a good sign, it's your body's natural process for sealing the follicle in an effort for healing to occur. If a crust develops, let the skin heal and do not pick at it, as picking may cause the area to pit or scar (allow the area to shed on its own). During treatment, the hair was removed with a current of energy, traumatizing the dermal papilla, rendering the hair follicle exposed to elements and bacteria. The best thing that you can do is to keep the area clean, avoid touching it and avoid applying harsh products on it for 24 hours. If you follow my 10 steps for successful post-treatment healing, you'll be fuzz-free with beautiful glowing skin in no time. 

1. Keep the area clean with alcohol, witch hazel, hydrogen peroxide or soap and water and pat the area dry with a tissue or cotton. Do not use a towel, as even a laundered towel may harbor bacteria. 

2. Keep the area moist by applying a thin layer of "Bacitracin" ointment, for the first 48 hours. Bacitracin works by stopping the growth of certain bacteria. You can purchase this ointment at your local drugstore. After 48 hours, continue to keep the treated area hydrated with "Aquafor" (found at your local drugstore as well).

3. If inflammation occurs as evidenced by swollen bumps on the skin, apply a cold compress to the treated area for 10 minutes, then remove for 10 minutes. Do this a few times, then apply your anti-bacterial ointment. 

4. Do not touch or disturb  the treated area, unless you've sanitized your fingers with alcohol first. Bacteria harbors on the fingertips and can create an infection on the treated area. Remember, an exposed follicle is a vulnerable one. 

5. Do not exfoliate the  treated area for 48 hours.

6. It is common to develop ingrown hairs in areas that have been treated for a period of time. If an ingrown hair develops, gently exfoliate the area 48-72 hours after treatment. 

7. Avoid direct sun on the treated area for 48 hours (including tanning beds). Sun exposure to the treated area may cause post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, so stay out of the sun and wear a hat.   Sun exposure can cause damage to the skin, post-treatment, so after 48 hours apply sunscreen to the treated area. Remember, the simple task of walking across the street or driving in your car will expose the skin to direct sun light. I recommend using a broad spectrum, Paraben-free sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30. I love "Tizo" brand. It comes in a tinted and non-tinted version, and is very soothing to the skin. 

8. Keep the treated area as clean & clear as possible (with the exception of an occlusive ointment) for the first 24 hours. Therefore, minimize the use of make-up & do not encourage sweat via exercise.

9.  Do not drink alcohol within 24 hours of treatment. Alcohol thins the blood which can interrupt the healing process. 

10. Avoid shaving the treated area for 24 hours after treatment. 

For weekly beauty and skin-care tips, follow my beauty pages @Beauty and Brow Girl

--CIAO for now  xo

Melasma

WHAT IS MELASMA?

Melasma is a very common skin condition which affects millions of people in the US, primarily women because it's hormone related. It causes brown to gray-brown patches or splotches on the face, neck and forearms, and can be very unsightly and difficult to camouflage with make-up (an orange-based corrector cream works best. You can even try blending-in orange pigment, like orange lipstick or an orangy concealer. Blend the makeup into the skin, then brighten the skin up with foundation or a non-orange concealer that is 2 shades lighter than your skin tone. The goal is to temporarily "erase" the pigmentation on an effort to camouflage the staining).

Also referred to as "pregnancy mask", since it affects many women during pregnancy (a hormone frenzy), what exactly causes Melasma in the first place is a bit of an enigma. Aside from pregnancy, it can be induced by the use of hormone therapy, birth control pills, anti-seizure medication and SUN EXPOSURE.

If you have or think you have Melasma, consult with a board certified Dermatologist, however, your first line of defense should be a "broad spectrum" sun screen (minimum 30) applied to the face EVERY DAY. Broad spectrum protects your skin against UVA and UVB rays; my favorite sunscreens are the "physical" versions which contain Zinc or Titanium Dioxide. Sun protection needs to be perpetual skin maintenance. It's not only about the UVA/UVB rays either. The sun's infra-red rays (which by the way penetrate glass) feeds Melasma, aggravating and worsening the situation. Yes, Melasma gets worse with heat, that's why I never recommend laser therapy to treat it, as lasers produce heat energy.  This is called "heat induced pigmentation" and can affect skin even whilst wearing a hat. Hats protect the face from sun exposure, but the heat generated from the hat itself and from the sun's radiation can deepen the pigmentation, yikes! So what does one need to do, live in a cave?

TREATMENT:

Many at-home and over-the-counter treatments (such as acid exfoliators and OTC lightening creams) may aggravate  the situation and darken the pigmentation over time, so if you have a Melasma it's important to address the situation with your  Dermatologist first. Your doctor may prescribe a protocol using both lightening creams (containing 4% Hydroquinone) as well as a series of controlled chemical peels. There is an amazing over the counter oral supplement called "Helioplex" which is botanical based (it is derived from the fern plant) and protects the skin against the effects of the sun. It is IMPORTANT to note that if you take Helioplex, it is NOT a substitute for sunscreen. However, if you are prone to Melasma (and sun burn) and spend a lot of time in the sun, this OTC supplement is a terrific  "added" protection protocol that I highly recommend. 

BEST LASER FOR MELASMA:

Laser energy is hot, and a laser with too much heat can actually intensify the pigment. The same theory applies to the radiation one gets through glass (from the sun), as well as heat exposure in general. So a cool laser can be used in conjunction with the other aforementioned treatments. 

"Clear & Brilliant Laser" is a mini fractional laser which is a cool laser and works well because on Melasma because it's not as hot as other lasers, but is incredibly efficient at treating pigmentation issues. Although you may require several treatments due to it's conservative level of energy, some  patients see major results after only one treatment. 

For more information about Melasma or the Clear & Brilliant laser, contact your board certified Dermatologist. 

For daily skin-care and beauty tips, follow me, @Beauty and Brow Girl 

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-CIAO for now  xo

Sparse Eyebrows

SPARSE BROWS affect the majority of women. Even those with fuller, thicker brows have to contend with sparse areas. The fix is easy and there are several options: the quickest fix is to shade those sparse areas in with pigment. Whether using an eyebrow shadow, a brow pencil,  a tinted wax or a mousse, you have plenty of options. 

Brow-growth serums like "Revitabrow" work well, but need to be used consistently. What serum do I personally use? I condition my brows daily with my own natural, non-chemical cocktail of various oils, including Castor (yes, it works). Another option which works amazingly well is "Latisse", available by prescription. 

Lastly, for those with little to no brows, you may want to consider Permanent Make-up to render your brows permanently shaded. Message me with questions regarding your sparse brows. There's a fix, I promise you!

RETINOIDS & RETINOLS: the only youth cream you'll ever need

Without fail, the question that women want answers to the most pertains to the elusive youth serum. Does it exist? Is there a magic potion that can reverse the signs of aging? Is the term "anti aging" an urban myth?  

Of all the skin care products on the market, and trust me there are thousands, RETINOIDS are, by far, the Big Kahuna in the fountain-of-youth arena.  

I can always tell when a woman over 40 is using a Retinoid. Her skin possesses a distinctive luminosity and smooth-as-silk texture that resembles dewy porcelain. You just can't get that texture with OTC creams. 

WHAT ARE THEY?

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin-A (Retinoic Acid in it's pure form). It's a rock-star for skin, stimulating collagen production to plump-up the skin, heal the skin of fine lines, fade acne scars as well as reduce hyper-pigmentation. Retinoids help with clogged pores (by assisting the follicle in extracting oil) and assists in eradicating acne, not to mention creating an impossibly smooth skin-texture. But the reason I bow-down to the skin-Gods everyday is because of Retinoid's ability to RESTORE. Retinoic Acid penetrates deep within the Mitochondria of the skin cell, causing it to CHANGE and RENEW. Amazing? Indeed. Revolutionary? Not at all. Retinoids have been around for decades, yet women (and men alike) still search for the latest-and-greatest products that will work miracles in renewing their skin; searching and searching, like Dorothy, for something that has actually been under their noses all along.

STAY AWAY FROM THE SUN?

Retinoids not only boost collagen production, but they have the potential to stop photo-aging BEFORE it even begins. They also prevent the rise of Collagenase which is the enzyme that breaks down Collagen after UV exposure. So staying out of the sun is a misconception. The skin REQUIRES protection from the sun's UV exposure, regardless of Retinoid use, therefore, as long as you protect it with a Paraben-free high-quality "broad spectrum" SPF (preferably 50), feel free to go out and enjoy the sunshine (in moderation).

RETINOIDS ARE ROCK STARS FOR SKIN!

I believe that Retinoids aren't mainstream due to their reputation: "Upon use, the skin perpetually peels like an onion, glows red like a tomato, dries-up like a raisin and is forbidden from sun exposure....not to mention, they're expensive!" Is that true? Well, it's partially true. Yes, the skin will go through a transitional period called "Retinoid dermatitis". This will last until the skin acclimates itself to the cellular changes whilst using vitamin-A derivatives. This change, however, (which includes peeling, redness, dryness and sensitivity), should only last for the first few weeks until the skin adapts. Have you ever worked your muscles to the sore-point, at the gym, only to find out that after subsequent work-outs, your muscles are no longer sore? The same theory applies to the skin's reaction to Retinoids....it adapts.

So what's my recommendation? PUSH THROUGH the dry, flaky stage and envision the luminous new-skin that is yet to come. 

NOT ALL RETINOIDS ARE THE SAME

There are three different types of Retinoids on the market: 1. Tretinoin (brands include Atralin, Avita, Retin-A, Retin-A Micro, Renova), 

2. Tazarotene (brands include Avage & Tazorac), and 3. Adapalene (known as Differin). Tazarotene is the stronger of the three (and potentially more irritating). Tretinoin is the second strongest and the more popular of the three, in my opinion. Adapalene is the gentlest of them all.  

WHAT EXACTLY DO THEY DO?

Based on their level of concentration, as well as your skin's specific needs, your doctor can prescribe the best version for you, whether it's an OTC Rx Skincare line like Dr Brandt or Obagi, or a prescription cream; Retin-A and Renova (Tretonin) are probably the most well known. Retinoids --and their cousin RETINOLS-- are the quintessential youth cream with the ability to actually CHANGE your skin, significantly improving its texture, tone and appearance. Retinoic acid is the magic ingredient that fights visible aging, nothing else can transform skin like it...NOTHING. They actually improve the cellular function of aged, damaged skin, and it does so at the MOLECULAR level; you can't get that with 

non-vitamin A serums and moisturizers alone. The super ingredient in Retinoids is RETINOIC ACID, which actually changes the DNA of skin cells.....AMEN to that!

RETINOIDS VS. RETINOLS

So what's the difference between RETINOIDS & RETINOLS?  Retinols are purchased over the counter, OTC, (as seen in drugstore brands such as Olay, Roc and La Roche-Posay), and are a good gateway Retinoid. 

Retinol slowly converts to Retinoic acid OVER TIME, which is the active ingredient in prescription Retinoid creams.This process of conversion takes much longer than if using a prescription right off the bat, however, for those with sensitive skin or for those leaning into Retinoids for the first time, an OTC Retinol is a good starting point. They have a much lower concentration of active ingredients, which will limit the amount of irritation to the skin. An OTC Retinol will smooth wrinkles and fade blotches over a period of 12 months or so. After a year of Retinol use, your skin may be ready for a stronger prescription Retinoid. 

The skin converts OTC Retinols into Retinoic acid at the cellular level; this conversion process takes time, however biochemically it does exactly the same thing as a prescription Retinoid, it just takes much longer to see results.

Regardless of sensitivity however, if your skin has never been exposed to Retinoic Acid, start with an OTC Retinol; I recommend starting with one labeled "sensitive skin" OR, use a Pro-Retinol which has the weakest ingredients of them all. Pro-Retinols include Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, and Retinyl Linoleate, and is a great starting point or gateway Retinol, so look for OTC products with these ingredients listed.

Retinoids are the most potent, and are by prescription only. They reduce the appearance of large pores and they aggressively pull away dead skin from the surface to reveal renewed skin that is smooth and luminous. A little goes a long way, so a pea size amount spread out in a thin layer is ALL you need. More is NOT more effective when it comes to Retinoic acid, more is simply more IRRITATING.

To re-cap, the order of Retinoid use for virgin skin should begin with Pro-Retinols first, Retinols second, then finally prescription Retinoids (which come in varying levels of strength) last. I recommend transitioning over to the stronger concentration, of each category, every 12 weeks or so, to give the skin time to adjust.

DOES WET SKIN ABSORB THE PRODUCT BETTER?

I have clients that use Retinoids on wet skin, as recommended by their doctor. However, applying a Retinoid to damp skin does not maximize its potency. The application process does not dictate how much of the Retinol gets converted into Retinoic acid, it has to do with your body chemistry's Retinoid receptors. Applying the product on damp (or dry) skin is fine, just be aware that it will have no bearing on the depth of absorption.

SKIN NEEDS TIME

Skin cells need time to acclimate themselves to change, so using a low-level Retinol 2-3 times per week affords the skin time to get acclimated to the Retinoic acid. Build up your use every few weeks until your skin can tolerate the product everyday. Consistency is key, so once you commit to a Pro-Retinol, Retinol or Retinoid, stick with it. Work your way up, every 12 weeks, to a stronger version until you have graduated to a full-on prescription Retinoid (which come in varying levels of strength as well). 

BUT I CAN'T AFFORD IT!

If you think you can't afford prescription Retinoids, think again. Insurance coverage of a prescription Retinoid, like Retin-A, varies by plan. A 20-gram tube will cost about $75. However, generic Tretinoin costs about $40, definitely doable for a product guaranteed to work. For now, only Tretinoin is available in a generic version. Drugstore Retinol products are obviously even less expensive. Look for ones with 0.1 percent Retinol packaged in aluminum tubes (aluminum protects  the product from air and light and will maintain its potency).

Once you graduate to a Retinoid, I recommend switching to the next, more concentrated level, every 12 MONTHS. After a year, the percentage of Retinoic acid you are using will hit its limit of repair and cannot move beyond a certain repair point, unless you move to a higher concentration. 

Retinoic acid manipulates and changes the skin cells and it stimulates collagen production, ultimately improving the texture and tone of the skin. The longer you use it, the better your skin will look, so be patient. 

DOES RETINOIC ACID EXFOLIATE MY SKIN?

Although there is typically peeling, dryness and redness associated wth the initial use of Retinols and Retinoids, that is merely a side effect of the irritation. Skin cells turn over at an excellerated and aggressive pace whilst using a Retinoic acid product, therefore, there is no need to exfoliate your face with chemical or mechanical exfoliants. Retinoic acid does NOT exfoliate like a Glycolic acid, it penetrates the dermis much more profoundly. The peeling you get with Retinoid use occurs upon initial use; it's a side affect associated with the sudden change in cellular manipulation. This peeling-stage is certainly not why the skin starts to look better, but rather, it's why most people give up Retinoid use in the first place. Therefore, as I mentioned earlier, give your skin time to get acclimated; only use a pea-sized amount on the skin, spread it out in a thin layer and do not forget about the area under the eyes. Retinoids repair the under-eye skin beautifully, just keep the product away from the eyes. The redness and peeling will subside eventually, I promise. The reason why the irritation occurs to begin with, is because Retinoids work at an incredibly profound level, much more so than any other skin care product you will ever use. The advantage is that they manipulate gene expression and cause enhanced collagen production, which results in über-smooth skin and an impossibly even skin tone. It's truly remarkable

Retinols and Retinoids are truly a wonder in the advancement of skin care. Over 40 years of research has proven that Retinoic acid works, so what are you waiting for? Stop searching for the fountain of youth and start researching what derivative of vitamin-A will work best for your skin. Consult with your skin-care professional to determine your skin's specific needs. Or contact me, I'll be happy to steer you in the right direction. 

For weekly beauty and brow tips, follow me: @Beauty and Brow Girl

Twitter: @BeautynBrowGirl

--CIAO FOR NOW xoxo

Glycolic Body Wash Works WONDERS on Problem Skin

Skin is a self-healing machine. However, to encourage cell turn-over (which in turn will render skin re-newed and impossibly silky smooth), you need to EXFOLIATE! There are granular exfoliants (like sugar & salt scrubs), mechanical exfoliators (like pumice stones & sponges) and then there is my favorite, the ACID Exfoliator. There are several different types of acids, but GLYCOLIC is my absolute favorite. It penetrates the skin deeper than any other acid and assists skin in flushing out impacted hair follicles. It stimulates cell turn-over BIG TIME and it chemically sloughs the skin without a harsh abrasive. I use Ultima Med Spa 10% or Mario Badescu AHA Glycolic Body Wash two times per week. Massage the wash into wet skin, LET IT SIT on your skin for a few minutes, then rinse off to reveal the most amazing skin on the planet! 

Glycolic Acid is a revolution for skin, however, you don't want to overdo do it. Skin cells need time to renew and turnover in their own without too much encouragement, therefore a twice per week regime using glycolic for exfoliation is more than enough.  

--CIAO for now xo